It was a pure expression of release: kayaking on a steamy late spring day on the calm waters of Stockbridge Bowl, also known as Lake Mahkeenac, which straddlles the Berkshires towns of Stockbridge and Lenox. Above the lake’s north side is Tanglewood, the famous summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, that is due to open for performances in July after being closed for a year. (Apparently, the BSO also owns a beach nearby on the lake where musicians kick back on their days off.) Today’s excursion, though, was part of a program formulated by Canyon Ranch, the longstanding Lenox offshoot of the Tucson based wellness retreat. It’s one of the Pathways reformulated for the retreat’s reopening in April called Outdoor Escape, perfect for city dwellers emerging from pandemic hibernation.
With last summer’s arrival of Miraval Berkshires, the outpost of another wellness heavyweight headquartered in Tucson, there is another reason to come to this scenic town in western Massachusetts that has historically drawn tycoons, responsible for the Gilded Age mansions that still dot the landscape, and literary figures such as Edith Wharton. Canyon Ranch set up shop here in 1989 using one of those Gilded Age mansions, Bellefontaine built in 1897, as a centerpiece but compared to Miraval’s magazine layout-worthy décor designed by international superstar Clodagh, a more ambitious culinary program plus wine list (Canyon Ranch will allow you to bring your own) and some original programs such as meditating with horses, the earlier retreat’s facilities may look a bit dated.
Where Canyon Ranch shines, though, is in the quality of its practitioners who have drawn guests back for repeat visits. Within the Pathways programs, which are divided into 3, 5 and 7 night plans, medical experts can determine the causes of medical conditions and create healing food choice and exercise plans as part of the Optimal Health Exploration; another Pathway Reconnect With Joy is designed to help guests find more spirituality or purpose and explore new forms of expression; others help guests deal with trauma or loss and alleviate stress through purifying rituals. Taking advantage of its lush setting surrounded by forests, Outdoor Escape includes options apart from kayaking such as the Japanese Shin Rin Yoku, the communion with nature, specifically trees, known as forest bathing; the Contemplative Circle which forces inward examinations through a guided walk along a circle of stones, a high ropes challenge course and climbing wall. Plus classes, talks and the simple pleasure of sitting out on the expansive lawn looking out at the trees.
Nearby, as a counterpoint to the lean, health-centered ethos of the other retreats, is the opulence of Blantyre, a member of Relais & Chateaux. The main house here is another throwback to the Gilded Age, a Tudor mansion built in 1902 and modeled after the ancestral home of the original owner’s mother in Scotland; a carriage house and several cottages are also scattered around the 110 acre grounds. Guests returning now after being away for several years won’t recognize the interiors which have been lightened and infused with more contemporary furnishings added to the house’s antiques. The overall effect is elegant without being stuffy with a great attention to detail such as the delicate, traditional fine china tea cups placed next to the Nespresso machines in the rooms instead of more pedestrian mugs.
Lenox has a pretty sophisticated dining scene with popular restaurants such as the Mediterranean Alta in the center of town serving dishes such as pan seared trout with mixed olive and basil lemon butter sauce and a rich raspberry tart. Last year, superstar chef Daniel Boulud came to town, opening a pop up restaurant at Blantyre; Café Boulud was so good that it’s been made a permanent addition this year. The reasons are clearly visible in dishes such as yellowfin tuna crudo with fines herbs, capers, chickpea crisp, lemon and tonnato dressing, steamed black sea bass with baby spring vegetables, wild rice and a carrot ginger emulsion and rack of lamb en persillade with artichoke, spinach subric, barley, oven dried tomatoes and garlic jus. But the star of any dinner probably arrives at dessert in the form of Gateau Marjorlaine, a gilded cylinder of dark chocolate ganache, vanilla Bavaroise and hazelnut ice cream that is completely irresistible.
It’s a visitor’s choice: a health conscious retreat or pure unabashed opulence. The best idea may be to do both.